Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide puts installed spray foam at $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot, with closed-cell at the top. Whole houses run $8,000 to $20,000 by its figures. A rim joist or single room is far less. We measure and send a written price.

No. Per square foot, blown-in and batts cost less. Foam costs more because it seals air and, in closed-cell form, slows moisture too. We use it where those jobs matter and loose fill where they do not.

Mostly because of bad installs: foam sprayed over roof leaks, on roof decks with no plan for moisture, or applied too thick in one pass. Installed correctly, in the right places, it is a sound choice. We inspect for leaks and moisture first and document what we install.

Usually because it was installed over a leak, hides roof damage, or was applied poorly. Some buyers and lenders want to see the roof deck. Correctly placed foam rarely needs to come out.

ENERGY STAR recommends R-60 for an uninsulated attic in zone 5, or adding R-49 where three to four inches are already there. Lancaster County is in Pennsylvania's central Zone 5 group.

Yes. Closed-cell foam on the steel walls and roof is the usual choice because it insulates and stops condensation in one layer.

PPL's current rebate form lists insulation and air sealing rebates for qualifying homes with electric heat or central air, with conditions and exclusions. Check with PPL for your eligibility before work starts.

HomeGuide advises at least 24 hours. We give you the time for the specific product when we schedule.

Closed-cell for anything near moisture, concrete, steel or tight framing. Open-cell for interior and above-grade cavities where cost and sound matter more. Many projects use both.

Sometimes, if the wall is dry and the plan lets it dry another way. Often we foam only the rim joist above and leave the stone. We decide case by case.

Closed-cell foam adds some racking strength to the framing it bonds to. Open-cell does not.

It depends on the R-value needed and the space available. The quote states the inches and resulting R-value for every area.

After it cures and the re-entry period passes, it is an inert solid. We follow the product's ventilation and re-entry instructions.

Yes, if it is dry and clean and the leaks underneath are sealed. Wet, moldy or rodent-soiled material should come out first.

Most older houses leak far more than they need to. If we tighten a house a lot, we talk about bath and kitchen ventilation.

Seal the attic floor so warm air cannot reach the roof deck, add depth, and keep soffit vents open.

Not until an electrician confirms it is inactive or replaces it.

For most houses, yes. It seals one of the biggest leakage areas for a few thousand dollars or less and takes about a day.

Yes. Walls and rims are easiest to do while exposed, and it keeps the finished space comfortable.

We usually do not foam old stone directly because it needs to dry. We foam the rim above and address moisture separately.

PPL's current form lists rim joist insulation for qualifying homes, using spray foam or rigid foam, when the new R-value exceeds the old. Check eligibility with PPL.

Yes. Closed-cell foam on the steel keeps warm, moist air off the cold metal, which is what causes the drip.

It depends on how warm you keep it and how you heat it. We quote walls and roof separately once we know the use.

Usually the old blanket should come out, especially if it is torn or wet, so foam bonds to the steel.

PPL's current insulation rebate form excludes workshops, garages and outbuildings.

Yes, usually by a lot per square foot. On open attic floors, sealing plus blown-in is often the best value.

Yes, with dense-pack cellulose through small holes in each bay, which are patched afterward.

Both work. Cellulose slows air a bit more; fiberglass resists moisture and settles less. We recommend one for your attic and explain why.

Not solid brick, which has no cavity. Framed walls behind brick veneer sometimes can be.

Only if it is wet, moldy, soiled or blocking air sealing. Clean, dry insulation can stay with new material added.

No. The vacuum hose runs from the attic to bags or a container outside.

We leave it alone and recommend testing. Asbestos-containing material is handled by a licensed abatement contractor.

Yes, by cutting and scraping. It costs more than loose fill removal.